The Great New England Road Trip: Days 5-7, Letchworth Park
Day 5 – Arriving at the Grand Canyon of the East
As we drove toward Letchworth State Park, the landscape began to change. With every mile north and east, the farms became more picturesque, and for the first time on the trip we really felt like we were getting close to New England. Rolling hills, beautiful barns, and lush green fields stretched in every direction, making the drive almost as enjoyable as the destination.
After arriving at our campsite and getting everything set up, we quickly realized that Letchworth isn't just a park - it's enormous. We were camped near the northern end, but looking at the map made it obvious there was an entire world waiting to be explored over the next few days.
Almost as soon as the camper was set up, the skies opened. Rather than fight the weather, we embraced it. The afternoon became a peaceful one, listening to the gentle patter of rain on the camper roof while we rested and watched Justin Morgan Had a Horse, one of the kids' favorite movies and a fitting choice since it takes place in nearby Vermont.
By evening, the rain finally let up, and we decided to make the most of the remaining daylight. We drove around the northern section of the park and immediately discovered that Letchworth had a personality all its own. There was an enormous swimming pool complex tucked into the woods and one of the most creative playgrounds we've ever seen. It was designed to resemble the park itself, complete with giant trees, clouds, and even a miniature park entrance station where kids could play ranger.
Then came our first glimpse of what everyone calls the "Grand Canyon of the East." Standing at Hogsback Overlook, we looked out across the deep gorge for the first time. It was only one small window into the park, but it was enough to leave us eager for morning. If this was just the introduction, we couldn't imagine what the rest of the park would hold.
Before heading back to camp, we drove into the nearby town of Mount Morris. Nestled in the middle of this quiet little town sat a charming old church that serves as the home of Lamplighter Ministries and Publishers. Visiting Lamplighter was one of the reasons we'd planned this stop in the first place. Their beautifully restored editions of classic books have long been favorites in our home. Everything was closed by the time we arrived but seeing it in person just made the anticipation for the next day that much sweeter.
Day 6 – Books, Rain, and Waterfalls
Rain greeted us once again the next morning, so we whipped up some eggs and toasted bagels beneath the camper awning while listening to the soft rhythm of raindrops overhead. With steaming mugs of tea in hand (English Breakfast for Brigette) we decided the weather made it the perfect day to visit Lamplighter.
Finding the entrance turned out to be more of an adventure than expected. At first, we weren't even sure where the bookstore was, or if we were in the right place. Finally, we spotted an open door and stepped inside. It turned out to be one of the highlights of our entire trip.
The staff welcomed us warmly and, after learning it was our first visit, immediately offered to give us a tour. We had no idea what we were about to experience. They led us through the historic buildings where every stage of their publishing process takes place. We watched books being sewn together, leather covers carefully assembled, and beautiful gold foil stamped onto finished bindings. Every step was remarkably hands-on, preserving craftsmanship that has almost disappeared today.
Even the buildings themselves were fascinating. Their "warehouse" occupies what was once the sanctuary of a beautiful old chapel, while the recording studio where they produce audiobooks is literally built inside the church's original pipe organ. Everywhere we looked, we saw creativity, excellence, and an obvious love for beautiful books. Naturally, the tour ended in the bookstore, and even more naturally, we left with far more books than we had planned. We honestly think the kids talked more about Lamplighter than Niagara Falls afterward!
On the way back to camp, we couldn't resist stopping by a little thrift store along Mount Morris's charming Main Street before heading back to the camper for lunch as another gentle rain drifted across the campground.
Later that afternoon one of the girls baked brownies while the rest of us packed dinner for an evening exploring the southern end of Letchworth. This was where the park truly revealed why it's so famous.
We ate dinner at the Upper Falls picnic area with an incredible view of the waterfall, framed perfectly by the towering railroad bridge overhead. Even the picnic tables deserve attention here. Massive stone tables sit throughout the park, and it made eating dinner just that more exciting.
After dinner we explored Upper Falls before climbing beneath the massive railroad bridge spanning the gorge. Just when we thought the scenery couldn't become more dramatic, we made our way to Middle Falls.
Middle Falls is even larger than Upper Falls, and somehow even more impressive. Visitors can walk right to the stone wall at the very top of the waterfall, where the river suddenly plunges into the gorge below. Following the overlook around reveals the full force of the cascade as water crashes into the canyon with astonishing speed.
Between the waterfalls, towering bridges, dramatic overlooks, and endless views into the gorge, we quickly realized Letchworth is far more than just a state park. It's one of the most beautiful places we've ever visited and thought maybe we should just live here, then we could marvel at how beautiful and special this place is every day.
Day 7 – More Than We Ever Expected
For our last full day in Letchworth, we couldn't resist returning to the waterfalls one more time. Our destination was the Lower Falls and the beautiful stone bridge nestled beneath them. The hike into the gorge hardly felt real. It was difficult to believe scenery like this existed in western New York. The bridge itself seemed to belong perfectly in the landscape, blending so naturally with the towering cliffs around it.
After crossing the bridge, we climbed partway up the opposite side until we reached a stone landing overlooking the falls. There we noticed wild berries growing beside the trail. Curious, we looked them up and discovered blackberries, raspberries, and something we'd never encountered before - thimbleberries. It was a fun little discovery that made the hike even more memorable.
The views from the landing and the bridge were breathtaking, but climbing closer to the Lower Falls revealed another surprise. The constant mist nourished carpets of vibrant green moss and delicate purple wildflowers that covered the rocks around the falls. We'd noticed these beautiful plants around all three waterfalls, but nowhere were they more abundant than here. They made the perfect backdrop for photos of two of our newest teas, whose colors matched the flowers almost perfectly.
Later that morning we stopped by the visitor center and nature center so the kids could pick up their Junior Ranger booklets before heading to the Wolf Creek picnic area for lunch. This area showcased yet another side of Letchworth's incredible stone craftsmanship. Massive retaining walls climbed the hillsides, elegant stone bridges crossed rushing streams, and enormous picnic tables were scattered throughout the park.
One table in particular immediately caught the kids' attention. It was nearly twice as long as the others and had settled over the years, leaving a crack straight down the middle.
"It looks just like the Stone Table from Narnia," one of them said.
Then came the inevitable conclusion, "Aslan has already been here."
We all laughed, and from that point on, none of us could look at it without imagining it in the story. We enjoyed lunch in what felt like a giant outdoor stone dining hall while Wolf Creek and the distant waterfalls provided the soundtrack.
That afternoon became even more exciting when our cousins arrived. The kids had been eagerly awaiting this reunion and seeing them together again was worth the wait. These cousins are truly the peanut butter to their jelly.
Once camp was settled, we all headed back out to share the waterfalls with them. Every visit somehow uncovered another beautiful angle or another hidden perspective. Just when we thought the afternoon couldn't become any more memorable, we rounded the corner at Middle Falls and looked up. A hot air balloon was descending toward the river.
Earlier that day we'd met a friendly couple at the nature center who mentioned they hoped to take a balloon ride that evening (wouldn’t you know, they used to live in Huntsville! What a small world). As the balloon drifted closer, we realized they were the passengers. We watched in amazement as the pilot skillfully lowered the basket until it hovered just inches above the water before gliding toward the edge of the falls. For a few magical moments the balloon floated directly in front of the roaring cascade before climbing gracefully back into the sky.
It passed close enough for us to wave to the couple before disappearing above the gorge. Moments later, another balloon repeated the same breathtaking flight. It felt almost too perfectly timed to be real.
Before ending the day, we visited the Seneca Council Grounds and the statue of Mary Jemison. This turned into one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Several of the kids had read Indian Captive, but none of us realized that the land where Mary Jemison eventually lived with the Seneca is now part of Letchworth State Park.
Seeing the preserved cabin of Mary's daughter and the statue honoring Mary brought the story to life in a way none of us expected. Just when we thought we'd seen everything Letchworth had to offer, it surprised us one last time.
This park is full of wonders, both natural and historical, and it left us wishing we had just one more day to explore.
